Volume 1
Contents
The Attack on 'The Fortress'
Steve's Journal
Treader Times is a magazine of the explorations of the Treadgold family it is published when ever I feel like it. This copy is only in black and white, when I have time to get the pictures scanned in color I will update this page.
Publisher, Writer, Editor and all round jo boy: Stephen Treadgold (streadgo@telusplanet.net)
Copy editors: Too numerous to mention.
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The Attack on 'The Fortress'
Dateline: July 28, 1996
Today I was joined just by Claudia Jaspert. Since it was just the two of us I suggested to Claudia that we could climb to the summit of The Fortress, that is if she felt up to it. This climb would involve 4 more hours added on and 5 more hours to get back down. Claudia said she was game for the summit even though it will be her first summit this year. It would be my eighth summit of the year.
So let me begin the story.
We left Calgary at about 9 AM and arrived at Chester Lake at about 11 am. The drive up was not without its events. On our way up the Spray Lakes road, just above Canmore, a red truck with red flashing lights came speeding up behind us. I pulled off the road as close to the rock as I could to allow him to pass.
Upon reaching the top of the valley we found out why he was in such a rush. There was three other emergency vehicles and a helicopter there, as well as a large number of other cars. It seems there was a rescue in progress as they were watching Chinaman's Peak. I didn't want to add to the confusion that was about so I kept on going, they seem to have it all in hand. I found out later that somebody fell off Chinaman's Peak while rock climbing. Not to worry he made it out alive the last I heard.
Now back to the trip. The day was sunny and it promised to be very hot, with no rain. We started hiking up the ski trails. These trails are quite wide even though the trees. Because of how wide they are the sun was beating down upon us already. By the way what type of hat do you prefer while hiking? I have been using a baseball hat for quite a while now but am quite board with it. As we work our way through the trails the way is climbing here and there but nothing hard. Once we cross a rushing stream, which Claudia cooled off in by dunking her hat, the hike leaves the ski trails and goes off into the forest.
Once we entered the forest I hoped to get out of the blazing heat of the sun, but at lass the trail, which was only wide enough for one person, started to climb in earnest. While still in the trees, we started to hear a stream flowing. As the trail progress we came upon an open area looking out on the small stream, and stopped for a breather. From there the trail continues on up the valley. It looks ahead as if you are going in to dead end valley surrounded by rock. We continued along the trail and the climbing seemed to lessen somewhat. The trees seemed to enclose us less. As we are pushed on, the trees once again enclosed upon us by the rock ramparts on each side. We had to jump across the stream, just as the trees appeared they thinned out again. This revealed an incredible field of boulders covering three quarters of the valley. Luckily we can skirt the boulders and not have to go over.
As we hiked around the boulders, on the right side of us was the stream that seemed to disappear in and out of the rocks. We rounded the boulders the trail seemed to disappear. There looked like a wall of rock ahead with no trail at all. As with many trails in the mountains, a trail does not reveal itself until you are almost on top of it. Claudia with her sharp eyes saw a few people ahead, the first we have seen so far. This trail climbed up through the trees, and was well worn with quite a lot of foot and hand holds. As we gained the top we caught up with the people ahead.
The trail leveled out for a bit as the trees thinned again. From here we have but to climb up the last piece of rock to gain the first lake. As the trees disappeared and the rock took over once again, we came upon a patch of snow. I decided to wait for the approaching group to cross it before attempting it. How early had they started? The group seem to contain mostly Senior citizens. It is nice to see that people that age can still hike. I hope I am just as spry as them when I am their age. From the snow we had to climb up a trail, as it revealed itself. Once we gained the top, the wonderful view of the first Headwall Lake came into view, a perfect place to stop for lunch.
After a little rest I suggested to Claudia that we shouldn't sit here too long if we were to make the summit. So about 3PM we left the lake to hike around it and beyond.
The climb up to the second lake was up a well defined trail. (this whole trail is quite well defined really, i.e. one can't get lost.) Once we got to the Second Lake we hiked around it upon a boulder field. As we reached the end of the lake we had to cross a larger patch of snow. We followed the existing foot prints and had no problems. I do remember that this piece of snow was much smaller last year. From the snow we started climbing again! this time the way up wasn't very long. We found ourselves in a bolder strewn valley surrounded by mountains with a pleasant stream running through it.
I decided that we would hike up the stream bed and climb to the col point up the skree slope, crossing any snow as we needed. We worked our way through the boulders making sure not get our feet wet as we jumped across the stream. As we were winding our way through the moss covered rock we were joined by a stranger from another group. I guided both ladies, Claudia and our new guest Tara, up the skree slope. The slope, the steepest yet, was at a 45 degree angle. The route I chose was directly up towards the col point, and as we came to patches of snow I led the way. We reached the col at about 4PM where we stopped for a bite to eat. Tara's group was heading for this point so we reluctantly left them behind to attempt the last pitch towards the summit.
The slope seemed steeper yet again. As we worked our up the trail wound it's way back and forth. When we came to a sharp drop, on either the side, I would go on ahead and block the view from Claudia because she of her fear of heights. We finally made it to the summit block at about 4:30. We made good time. The next part is the most difficult part of this climb.
Here you are almost 3000 meter up and are forced to climb up a what looks like a vertical rock face. As we stand at what seems to be the end of the trail we are looking a ledge of rock with a broken wall on the left. I had Claudia remove her pack to give her some movability and climb up the junction between the two walls. She got about half way up, with me calmly providing assistance and pointers, and couldn't go further. I helped her down and had her sit in a safe place, which I had to show her how save it really was. I began to climb the section she had just attempted and also only got half the way up. There was a large rock jutting out into my chest and sudden lack of holds. Then I realized that this was not the way to the summit, I got caught on this last time I was up here. The way up was above where Claudia was sitting.
I helped Claudia up and assist her to find hand and foot holds up the broken steps of rock. Once she was up the first large step I had her wait while I made sure her pack would be safe. From here the way is easier, there are piles of rocks to follow. We took our time so Claudia could find good foot holds. Once we cleared the broken rock steps the way to the summit is short slope of rock.
We reached the summit of The Fortress(3000 m) at 5:02 PM. I was quite impressed with Claudia as this was her first summit this year, and she maintained good control of her fear on the rocks below. Having been up here before the fear was not as strong in myself, this was also my 8th summit of this year and my 19th summit in the last three years.
We stayed on the summit to take some pictures. One of Claudia putting a rock on the pile, and one of the both of us at the summit.
The more I mountains I climb I more I appreciate the power and energy that was need to create them. This never fails to empress me. I have often sat a summit just looking around in wonder. If you start thinking about the world around you, the rock and the power to create it, the trees below and their struggle to survive, the animal unseen in those trees. Your own concerns in life are small and insignificant compared to this.
The climb down, which should have taken less time, was slow and steady. I had to keep stopping to make sure that Claudia was doing all right. She was still scared from the climb up and not conformable running down on the skree. That is a technique that only can be learned through time and not taught. We returned to the col point at 6PM.
We deiced to go back a different way and go out the Chester Lake side. This was the route I took last year, as well as have also hiked up this valley last year, So the route is familiar to both of us. The sun is starting to move closer to the horizon but I am sure we will make it out with plenty of light. (And did)
The way down is quite steep. I took out time to make sure Claudia was safe. The first section is down a slope of small black loose rock. It looks like you are dropping into the lake at the bottom. We crossed back and forth, for two reasons, one: to get better grip, two: to make the going easier. When we left the small black rock we had to work our way across larger limestone blocks. By this time we were down the steepest slope and I took a picture looking back.
The way ahead, on the bottom of the valley, is much easier. We worked our way west through the valley being careful not to slip on the large boulders. After what felt like hours, which it was, we finally reached the lip and dropped down towards Chester Lake. By about 7:30 we reached the lake, with its beautiful sub-alpine meadow. We wound our way through the meadow making sure to stay on the trail to protect the valley from further damage. After a spell we reached the trees, at last. The trail through the trees seemed to fly past us in our rush to reach my car, and put an end to hiking. Once we reached the ski trails we both knew that the parking lot was not far away and continued on.
We reached my car at about 9 PM the sun has yet to set. After resting for a bit, and for me changing into some drier closes, we started the drive back to Calgary. As tomorrow is a Monday and we both have to work, unfortunately.
On the way back as we left the Spray Lake the sun was setting and I got this picture. After picking up some drive through food in Canmore, we reached Calgary at 11PM.
Boy what a long day, but we quite enjoyed the hike.
Steve's Journal
Page 107
Saturday August 31, 1996. 9:30 AM - Highwood Pass Parking Lot
I have arrived at Highwood pass after leaving Calgary at about 8AM. Today I am going to try to climb Mount Rae. The parking lot is wet, evidence that it has been raining. There has been a bear watch on in this area for months now, so I must take the necessary precautions of extra bells on my hiking boots. The trail I am to follow today climbs through the Ptarmigan Cirque and then continues on towards a pass in to the elbow valley. From that point one climbs up, towards the summit.
11:00 AM - Exact location unknown.
I stopped for a munches. The wind is strong here and could be troublesome near the summit. The path through the valley was quite beautiful, even though the plants are starting to die. This valley would be very spectacular in the summer, a few weeks ago. I left the meadow behind and entered a rock filled valley, quite a difference from the meadow below. The valley is surrounded on all sides by complex folded mountains and the valley floor is an even shade of rock gray, not a speck of green.
12 Noon - At the col point above the valley.
The way up was quite a workout. I had the wind pushing me at a constant rate all the time. I figure the wind was about 50 kph. The valley, being full of rocks, has no places to stop out of the wind. You can't turn around and face the wind because it takes your breath away. Ahead of me most of the way was two guys, also making for the summit. They have also stopped here. I found a spot where the wind is calmer to sit and have a bite to eat. I can see clouds to the south and north. In fact, I cannot see across the valley to the north. It is starting to snow!! Well, off to the summit before I cannot see it.
1:40 PM - Near the Summit
I have been climbing almost blind for most of the assent, because of the snow and wind. I have made it to one spot where the trail is lost in the snow covered crags. I can't go on the trail is too dangerous, covered with ice and snow as it is. The chance of slipping is too great and I can't see what is below. I have found a spot to sit, out of most of the wind and blowing snow. I shall rest here and have a bite to eat to build up energy to climb down. After leaving the col point the snow gradually got worse to the point where I couldn't see more than 10 feet in front of me. I kept climbing in about the angle I though the trail should be on, while looking for the trail. I came to a band of rock. Not wanting to climb it, as it was covered with ice and snow, I followed it to the edge. Then I followed the ridge line up across the rock band. The mountain here was a little flatter therefore easier. Just a bit along I heard the voices of the other hikers ahead of me. They were coming towards me. I met up with them and asked what lie ahead for me. They told me the way was generally slopped until you got to an edge that you had to climb along and up. From there the trail was quite exposed and they had turned back at a section where the trail disappears. Thanking them for the news I continued on. My sprits were high and I wanted to make my own decision on the trail ahead. I followed the trail they were on. The snow had settled into the flat spots and made the trail more noticeable. I had to work my way across a tricky section that dropped down at a steep angle. With the snow and not knowing if my footing was secure the going was tuff. After that I came to a rock wall that I had to follow up at a 45 degree angle, at least the footing was good and I had the wall to hang on to. Once that ran out the ridge line proper had to be assented. I carefully climbed on the ridge as the wind or snow had still not lessened. Using my hands, climbing on my hands and knees, I worked my up the edge looking for large holds. I got to a point where I couldn't find any holds. Now was the time to turn back. Well, I can't return from every summit a success.
2:30 PM - Back at col
After a snowing and windy descent.
When I stood up at the last stop the wind had doubled. I guess to about 80 kph. I moved quickly as it could trying to keep my back to the wind. I made it down through a few sections very carefully because of the ice encrusted in the rock and the wind. The sun is shinning now and I feel warmed by its heat. As I look up toward the summit it is quite visible, but snow covered. I hate is when nature taunts you like this. One section I had to climb across, the rock band, would have been no problem in good weather. At it was I had to traverse back and forth looking for big enough foot holds. Any small edges I would have used were covered with ice. Once I got down that piece I stopped to put on warmer clothes and replace my ice encrusted gloves for winter ones. As luck would have it I had my warmer winter coat, as I am planning to go up into the ice caves near Bragg Creek later this weekend so I had packed it on Friday. While changing clothes I found that I was covered in ice, like the rocks around me. As I continued down the wind lessened and the snow stopped, but at least I could follow the trail as it was covered with snow.
4:30 PM - Back at my car
I worked my way down through the rock, still wearing all my winter clothes. When I got to the valley bottom the wind was still blowing. I had my Gortex jacket on with the hood up. The hood was being forced into my face and billowing out behind me like a balloon. The face guard was hampering my breathing. When I removed the hood I could breathe much better. As I entered the meadow the wind seemed to die. Through the meadow I took the opposite trail down, for a change of scenery. I had to stop three quarters of the way through the meadow, before I entered the trees to remove my coats as I was too hot. I arrived back at my car no worse for wear. After a rest I headed home to get ready for tomorrow as Claudia and I are going to climb half way up Mt. Allan and then hike down. To find a good spot to listen to Mozart on the Mountain.
Happy Trails!
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